lucas menegatti blog

2011-12-01T11:43:00.000-08:00

Juste une petite vidéo assez simple avec des choses plus ou moins récentes .

Bloclist :

Alea Jacta Est, 7c .
Hip Hop 8a+ .
Irréversible 7c .
Opium 8a .
Tigre et Dragon 8a .
L'Ame de Fond 8a .
Le Mandarin 8a .
La Directe du Surblomb de la Mée , 8a .
Le Bossu de Notre-Dame . 8a?
Le Plafond, 7b+ .
L'angle Parfait , 7b .
L'arrête du Bouledogue , 6c .

Musique :
Arcane - Supervision .
Wrong Platform , Pretty lights .

Images , Montage et grimpeur ; Lucas Ménégatti .

Matériel utilisé :
Canon 550D et 5D mkII , objectifs: 18-55mm, 24-70mm usm L 2.8 , Tokina 11-16 mm 2.8

Video trial .

2011-12-01T02:44:00.000-08:00

j'ai récemment finis de monté une petite video de vtt trial . Suivant l'athlète Clément Boniface en foret de fontainebleau pour quelque jours , j'ai eu l'occasion de découvrir un sport intense ce rapprochant beaucoup de l'effort et de l'esprit bloc . Le tout dans un respect de la nature .
Cette vidéo prend aussi part a un concours video pour la marque Inpulse Bikes .

Enjoy .

video trial final from lucas menegatti on Vimeo.

2011-02-14T01:24:00.000-08:00

It's been a while since i posted something on my blog despite many news . And i was waiting for this video to report it on here :

Three days to remember from lucas menegatti on Vimeo.

This video shows probably what is my best week of climbing .

First of all came Ajna , which is not featured on this video , a really cool travers that goes into an 8a that is given 8b FAed by christophe laumone . That was a really unexpected send cause i was supposed to go over to The Big Island after and was supposed to just warm up in this area , but i finally got caught in the game that ended nicely .
Here's a picture i took of Nils on it .

Then on the second day i had to rest because of rain . On then the video shows it all in order . One boulder per day .
Elephunk is a boulder that deserve more attention but is sadly so often wet that it makes it hard to climb for those whom are not staying long . And Finaly comes "the Geck" . I'm really proud of this one it took me so much energy and was such a mental game . Game that i finaly won thanks to all this confidence at the first try of the session .

I'm also proud to announce that i'm now part of the Team MoonClimbing where i'll also be bloging in english ( more to read about the big island ascent ) and also part of the 2011 Five Ten Team .

Lately i've been climbing softer but numerous amazing climbs that were on my list forever . I'm also trying to get better at the art of photography , helped by paul and stephan .

More to come .

Another session to the big island .

2011-01-24T12:24:00.000-08:00

Yet another good session on the island .

This session wasn't what i'd call the perfect one , the sky was grey and threatening , some droplets fell off the sky time to time , but we still decided to go to the boulder , give our best effort with Pascal and Guillaume .

After a while it started raining on us but not enough to get the keyhold wet , so we waited more to get the hold dry again .

I ended up trying another heelhook that finally didn't work but had me refind the correct body position and how to grab the hold perfectly , from then the temps got lower and the psych started to rise again .

I got to amazing tries really late with a lamp to light up the main holds , then rain came and i desperatly tried once more in vain . I never felt so close from doing it and psych is really high .

I hope being able to go there tomorrow to finish it .

Here's a little clip with from the progress .

Progress , part II from lucas menegatti on Vimeo.

New lense

2011-01-22T13:39:00.000-08:00

Pascal G. trying hard on the island .

I recently bought a new lense and i'm doing my first tries with it .

A video is soon to come about my last ascents .

Big Island session

2011-01-10T11:57:00.000-08:00

Put up by the frensh climber , vicent pochon last winter , this climb stayed unclimbed since then . This start adds up 2 moves into the "normal" island , not hard moves , just enough to make you pumped to get to the crux move that revolves around one heal and this right hand that you need to catch perfectly to be able to execute the rest of it .

Big Island 8C , Progress . from lucas menegatti on Vimeo.

On this video i did what is hard for me , get that right hand in the perfect position . I was able to engage the next move while my right hand dried fired off the slop ...

Once this move out left is done i have a fifty per cent chance to do the whole thing .

This is good training and i hope to be able to send it this winter .

The Island video .

2011-01-06T08:59:00.000-08:00

As I had no news to come up with beside getting close on all my projects and a really bad elbow pain from 4 days of trying hard out in the forest and as the rain came for a few days getting me stuck at home i decided to come back on what is one of my hardest proudest send , from a few weeks back , The Island . Enjoy .

The Island , 8B+ from lucas menegatti on Vimeo.

I decided to release this video even though the quality is poor and the editing could be much better . I'll try to put up a better video soon , maybe of the stand start of this problem .

Two days , great progress , no success .

2010-12-26T13:24:00.002-08:00

After a full week of bad weather and freezing temperature we're back in the game .

Day 13 , Paul and I , after a laborious day of cleaning both snow and ice from the Fata Morgana boulder , went there , with for the first time in a month the sun .

I had in mind Satan that i've been close from doing two years ago , but never managed to do the 3 movements in a row . I again can say that i got very close , closer . Paul came up with a new sequence that fit me perfectly but the dark was already there to break my hopes . Next time .

I lately made great progress in a lot of really hard and amazing climbs , such as these two last ones but also Chaos and Gecko . I'm looking forward to get the rest that i need and go out and execute . I just need a little success now .

Day 5

2010-12-17T15:53:00.000-08:00

First session on what could be consider as a new classic in font , Chaos 8B . Former 8B+ , people found a new beta making the stand start , "Le toit du greau" , 8A rather than 8A+ . The sit start add a sideway 7C+ crack climb into the stand .

Chaos , 8B .

Day 3

2010-12-16T13:28:00.000-08:00

Magnéton 8A , Gorge aux chats .

A Fontman In Font : Day 2

2010-12-16T12:58:00.001-08:00

Despite a hangover , the weather was unexpectedly perfect . COLD . I went back to Gecko for the first time since two years with fear to get spanked . Back two years ago i spent an entire winter trying this boulder problem , and got really close to send , not close enough to send though .

I found the boulder problem in what could have been the best condition i had seen it in . It was probably -2°C but the wind was blowing and it felt like -5°C easily .

I managed to do all the movements again ! So i'm super psyched about this one . It's on the top of my list for sure .

Back two years ago .

A Fontman In Font : Day 1

2010-12-16T09:35:00.001-08:00

As i'm gonna spend my winter in font with no obligation and all the free time in the world to climb i decided to blog again . With the concept of being the first fontman to be in holidays in his home crag .

My trip began on the 13th of December of 2010 with what was the first dry day out in the forest after the melt of the snow a week earlier . So i decided to confront myself one more time to what is the first 8a of the history of bouldering "C'était demain" in rempart . I had tried this problem a good amount of time and get shut down each time by what i consider to be a really hard 8a .

I finally got to climb it which was a relief and brought a great amount of joy . I'm pleased to be able to climb such a piece of history .

A Stephan Denys' picture of Jacky Godoff in C'était demain . Jacky FAed the historical boulder back in '93 .